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Antigua is a really laid back island. The sign by the side of the road saying “Slow Down” is not only a road sign! It is the way of Antiguan life! It is great to take a car for a day and do a tour. We started from Jolly Harbour and went north to the capital St John’s. There are museums, government house and other things you should see but we loved the markets the people, and the buzz. There is a vegetable and a fish market opposite each other and a very lurid statue of Lester Bird the first prime minister. The statue was donated by the Cubans - not sure what that was about.

We then drove north to head out of town before the cruise ships arrived and flooded the area. We headed to Dickenson Bay for the first of our range of beautiful beaches. Two big hotels dominate the beach the American style Sandals and an excellent value for money Halcyon Cove with its typical pier restaurant. We had a brief dip and then went on round the north coast to the kite surfing beach of Jabberwock. There was lots of wind and kite surfers were out in force. We drove on up past the airport and the Stamford cricket ground off to the west of the island. This ground was home to the humiliating defeat of England in the 20:20 competition.

The great thing about Antigua is the shortage of road signs and the poor maps - that makes driving so exciting. When you get lost just ask, the locals are friendly and used to helping people who have taken a wrong turn.

The road surface is a constant source of local gossip and concern. The only time anyone mends the road properly is before a general election. The rest of the time they just patch up the holes with some tarmac and roll it in with a steam roller. It lasts about a week.

You hit concealed sleeping policemen and pot holes all the time so the ride is bumpy. We headed out west to Pineapple Beach. Three hotels Diane Bay, Pineapple Beach and Verandah are here, but access to the beach is free for all so you can walk along in front of them. Another dip and we drive south to English Harbour and Shirley Heights. On Sunday night this is where the reggae bands gather to make music. This is well worth a trip in its self. Here you also find the Nelson dockyard Heritage site.

We drove up to the centre and then south for Carlisle Bay. En route in the middle of the rain forest is Antigua’s zip wire excursion. We did not try it but lots did. We drove on to Carlisle Bay for one last dip. The south coast has mudflats and mangroves and there are migrating waders in Spring and Autumn. Then along the south coast to Cocos where we stopped for dinner. It’s a nice restaurant with a panoramic view. That was the end of our drive. Jolly Harbour was just around the corner

Not the most scenic wonderland, but people, road side activity, kids running home, families out shopping make for an amusing day. The beaches are great and they are all free.

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Posted on June 29th, 2009 under Caribbean, Food & Culture, Holidays, Virgin Atlantic

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