With tranquil turquoise waters and stunning limestone cliffs, there is little doubt that Koh Phi Phi is one of the prized jewels of the Andaman Sea. Situated off Thailand’s west coast in Krabi province, these tiny islands have a justified reputation as an idyllic, laid-back slice of Asian paradise.

Phi Phi Don is the only inhabited island in ‘Phi Phi’, and visitors will be pleased to find that the variety of restaurants here belies its diminutive stature, with plenty of gastronomic delights on offer no matter what the hour or occasion. Here’s the essential guide to eating your way through the perfect Phi Phi day.

For a leisurely breakfast – Carpe Diem

Located towards the east end of Ton Sai beach, Carpe Diem has to be the most laid back restaurant on the island, despite its name. While nights here bring loud music and fire-dancing, Carpe Diem is best enjoyed in the morning, where a leisurely beachside breakfast can be enjoyed listening to the gentle sound of the waves.

For brunch – Phi Phi Bakery

The perfect place to catch up on all the local gossip, Phi Phi Bakery also serves a tempting array of fresh pastries, teas, coffees and juices. Take-outs are available from a street-front window if you need a pick-me-up en route to an early morning boat trip.

For lunch – Runtee Coffee Shop

As the majority of restaurants on the island are essentially outdoor, Runtee’s air conditioning makes it the perfect place to escape from the midday heat. Set back from the beach towards the west end of Loh Dalam Bay, their menu offers a wide range of local and international dishes to choose from while you are cooling down.

For a mid-afternoon snack – D’s Books

While the D’s Books chain is becoming somewhat ubiquitous in south east Asia, the Phi Phi branch is certainly unique. For a start, it has a café attached with free wireless internet and a wide choice of coffees, ranging from the ice cold to the hot and frothy. There’s also a great selection of sandwiches and a sundeck to soak up the rays. Plus a dog which plays Frisbee! What more could you ask for in a bookshop?

For an early-evening treat – Mojito Bar

You can order food at the Mojito Bar from its neighbouring restaurant while watching the sun set across the bay. Owner Jamie’s recommendation of pad gra prow (a spicy stir-fry with chicken and basil) is one of the best local dishes on the island, and once you’ve finished he’ll keep you amply refreshed with a fantastic range of cocktails. You may well end up spending the whole night perched on a Mojito barstool.

What about evening meal options on the island?

For the ravenous carnivore – H.C. Andersons

You know you’re living like a king when you splash out on a steak at one of the island’s more expensive restaurants and it still costs you only £6. H.C. Andersons is filled with holidaymakers hankering for quality imported meat. Personally, I’d go back just for the Scandinavian meatballs with cranberry compote.

For the budding chef – Pum Thai Restaurant and Cooking School

Renowned for its local cuisine, Pum offers cooking classes by day and a fine assortment of local dishes by night, including the fabulously titled ’Red Lipstick‘ (hot and sour soup). If there’s anything you really like, you can always come back the following day and learn how to make it yourself.

For the homesick – Cosmic

Spend long enough in Thailand and there will probably come a point when you need a break from rice and noodles. When you do, Cosmic is the place to go. Its Italian cuisine is so popular that it was forced to open a second sister restaurant just to cope with demand. The pizzas here are superb, and despite huge portions and excellent service, the prices remain ridiculously low.

For the romantic – Ton Sai Seafood

A visit to Phi Phi without trying the local fish is verging on criminal. Ton Sai Seafood is among the most romantic beachside seafood restaurants, offering gorgeous moonlit views across the bay.

The catches of the day are proudly exhibited at the entrance, and local favourites include the kingfish, snapper and lobster. If you have the energy, wrestling with some local crab is well worth the effort.

For the brave – Papaya

If you didn’t know that Papaya offered the best food on the island, there’s probably no way you’d ever set foot in the place. Resembling little more than a scruffy local café crammed in next to the lively Tiger Bar, this rough diamond offers Thai curries comparable with the very best in Asia.

The Massaman, Penang and green curries are all exceptional and can be prepared to suit all tastes, although ’medium‘ heat is usually enough to induce a steady sweat.

If you’re still hungry after all that, there’s always the option of a late night kebab in Little Britain, or some barbequed meat from a street vendor which has probably been cremating slowly since lunchtime.

You may be as well to wait for breakfast.

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