Climbing Mount Kinabalu - Borneo’s greatest peak

Climbing a mountain may not be at the top of everyone’s holiday to-do list, but when visiting Sabah in north-east Borneo, it’s an absolute must. Malaysia’s Mount Kinabalu boasts the title of the highest mountain in south east Asia, but rather than being beyond the limits of most mere mortals, it is surprisingly surmountable.

Climbers of all ages, often with no experience, regularly make the two day trip up and down its heights, and while it is certainly not easy, it is definitely achievable for anyone in reasonable shape.

The journey generally takes two days, and it is best to stay in the area around the national park the night before in preparation for an early start. There are a number of good quality, reasonable lodges close to Kinabalu Park HQ, which lies 10 kilometres from the coastal city of Kota Kinabalu.

On the morning of the big day you will be allocated a guide, who can be shared with other adventurers or hired privately for a higher rate. Once the very reasonable fees (around £25) have been paid, you will set off mid-morning.

The ascent is made in two stages. The first 6 kilometres takes you to Laban Rata at a height of some 3,350 metres, and takes around four to five hours. Here you will rest, eat, marvel at the views and get your head down for a few hours sleep at the slightly odd hour of 7pm. Accommodation at this midway point must be organised prior to the journey, and it is advisable to book at least a few days in advance as the lodges are full most nights - Tropical Sky’s expert travel advisors can help plan this part of the trip or you can book in resort.

The next morning, you will be woken at the rather unsociable time of 2.30am, ready to make the slightly steeper two to three-hour climb to the summit, Low’s Peak. The reason for the early start is that you won’t want to miss the sunrise, which at 4,095 metres will probably be one of the most amazing experiences of your life. It does get busy at the peak, so making the effort and rising early is something you won’t regret.

After you’ve finished marvelling at the incredible view, you’ll begin the descent, which is again made in two stages. The first takes you back to Laban Rata, where a well-earned breakfast will be eagerly devoured before the long, slow trip back down to base, which can often take longer than the ascent due to weary limbs.

Once home, successful conquerors will usually either go to nearby Ranau’s Poring Hot Springs for a sulphur-infused soak, or straight to your bar. Whichever you choose, your rewards will be richly deserved and even though your limbs may ache for a couple of days afterwards, you will have achieved something which you will truly never forget.

Mount Kinabalu climbing tips

• Dress in layers as the weather on Mount Kinabalu can be variable. A waterproof jacket is essential, as is a warm hat and a pair of gloves: not only is it cold at the summit, but there are stages when you have to hold onto a rope during the ascent. Shorts are sometimes worn if it’s hot during the day, but long trousers are needed for the early morning trek
• Comfortable worn-in climbing shoes are advised, although good quality trainers can also be worn
• Only take essentials - leave your main bag at the hotel and take a small rucksack for the climb and take a torch (preferably head mounted), medical kit, sunscreen, sunglasses, towel and a camera, as well as snacks and your spare clothes, which should be wrapped in a plastic bag in case of rain
• Bring clean water and snacks - water is available during the climb but is untreated so take a two-litre bottle with you, plus some chocolate for a quick energy burst. This can be bought at Laban Rata, but is extremely expensive
• Book accommodation-only at Laban Rata – when booking lodge space it is significantly cheaper to ask for the package without food. Meals can be bought separately at the restaurant and this will save a lot of money, although some agents may try to tell you that it is not possible to do this
• Wrap up warm at Laban Rata - although sheets and blankets are provided it can get very cold in the lodges, particularly as not all of the rooms are heated
• Don’t rush the climb - take plenty of rests and go at your own pace. Your guide will always stay behind you and even though you’ll be passed by old, local women carrying unfeasibly large loads, there’s no point trying to keep up
• Take a walking stick – a long stick to take your weight will save you a lot of pain, particularly on the descent, and may prevent you from having to walk like Frankenstein for the last couple of miles
• Finally, don’t plan on doing too much the following day. Unless you happen to be in peak condition, you are going to ache. Well, it would hardly be worth doing if it was too easy!

Further advice can be found on this Mount Kinabalu website, which has got plenty of helpful tips and inspiration for scaling the peak.

Photos copyright Rene Freling

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